Kyoto - Nijo Castle

Kyoto is magical.

The former capital of Japan from 784 - 1868 is riddled with temples, gardens, shrines and historically significant buildings.

Kyoto is a teasure trove of culture and encapsulates the spirit of Japan. Kyoto is so beautiful, you could spend months exploring all it has to offer.

One of the most beautiful places to visit is Nijo Castle (Nijojo). Nijojo was the Shogun's residence (the Shogun was the military leader of Japan) and is one of the most opulent buildings I have seen in Japan.

Nijojo is very easy to get to and is on the Tozai Subway line with a stop right opposite the castle.

Every aspect of the castle is beautifully maintained. Every tree and shrub is perfectly groomed and individual needles are plucked from the mighty pine trees to ensure the best shape and overall look of each section of the gardens.

One of the many things I am obsessed with  is Japanese roofs. They are so ornate with metal decorations and the roof tiles are so simple and unique. I dont see any of these roofs in Sydney!

Here is a picture of one of the main roofs of Nijojo which shows the details on the eaves and also how manicured the trees are around it. You can see the top of the tree in front of the roof has been trimed so the roof can be seen in all its glory.



Nijojo roof

The Nightingale Floors!

The Nightingale Floors are one of those things you hear about in myths and legends and history, but they are still present at Nijo Castle. The Nightingale floors are wooden floors that surround the rooms within Nijojo and when anyone walks on them, they squeak or chirp like a Nightingale. It is amazing that they are still chirping after all of these 400 or so years. These floors were built to ward off intruders as anyone who walks on them will be heard.
Rumour has it that the makers of these floors were killed after they were installed as they would be the only ones who would know how to get across it without it chirping.
These floors are amazing and so exciting to walk across. For once, you can actually interact with history and hear what the Shogun must have heard.


The Castle Interiors

The various rooms within the castle are nothing short of opulent. The rooms had to be decorated by the best artists of the time. The Kano school was one of the main art schools which was charged with decorating the walls of the most important rooms.

Unfortunately you cannot take any photos of the interior rooms, however you can purchase postcards which depict some of the most famous paintings of the castle.

A Hawke

A Tiger

Pheasants

A Peacock

  




   

The surrounds of the castle are equally beautiful. There are vast expanses of gardens and thousands of trees including Ginkgo and cherry blossoms. Unfortunately I was there in winter so the vast majority of the trees were not blossoming. There was however, one massive ginkgo that was just spectacular rising above some of the evergreen pine trees.



Gingko tree



These huge bronze bells are located just outside of the main entrance to Nijojo. I would love to have a mini bronze bell as a feature in my garden. I love the clouds that line the bottom of the bell and the twin dragon heads which form the handle. Just gorgeous!

I could go on forever talking about the beauty of Nijojo, but nothing would compare to seeing it yourself.

In my opinion, Nijojo should be on the top of anyones's list who travels to Kyoto. It is jaw-droppingly beautiful and nothing beats the feeling of knowing a Shogun himself paced the same halls as you can.

G

My Favourite Little Place in Japan

People often ask me where my favourite place in Japan is.

It is a tiny town called Nakanojo.

Nakanojo is located approximately 2 hours north of Tokyo and is in a mountainous region with natural hot springs. I found this tiny little hotel which is called a Shima Onsen in Japan and whose name is Kashiwaya Ryokan.  Here is a link to the website: Kashiwaya Ryokan 

The hotel is designed in a traditional style and has both Western and Japanese style rooms. I have stayed here twice in the 'Hana' room which has its own hot spring bath on the balcony with a view over the river.

The food is without a doubt the best we have had in Japan. Every breakfast and especially dinner is a work of art and must be consumed in the order it is served. There are about 3 courses for each dinner and it is brought to your room and served by the most polite and lovely staff.

Just one of the amazing dinners at Kashiwaya

Each element of the meal must be tasted. We have learnt that everything that is put on the plate is there for a reason. All the pickles and side accompaniments have to be tasted in conjunction with the main dishes and they are just bursting with flavour. There are so many varieties of pickles and the come in bright blue, green, yellow, pink and white.

The meals at Kashiwaya are honestly the best in Japan and it is so much fun to have it served in your room at a traditional Japanese table. There is often a little pot that sits over an individual burner which cooks some rice in a beautiful 'soup' and you can crack an egg into it to make it even more hearty. The most delicious plum wine is served with some meals which is the most delicious beverage you could imagine.

Kashiwaya has 3 outdoor hot springs which can be used by the guests. All the traditional elements are there including the most important which is to wash/shower before you enter the hot spring. The best time to visit is in winter when it is snowing. It is so much fun to be sitting in a hot spring while it is snowing!

One of the private hot springs at Kashiwaya

Last but not least, the staff at Kashiwaya are fantastic. You hardly see them, but somehow your room is cleaned and all the meals are prepared and served with a minimum of fuss. The staff are always smiling and happy to have a chat (in Japanese). The owner of the Shima Onsen is a gentleman called Masuo Kashiwabara who is really nice and always ready to answer any questions.

The river opposite Kashiwaya

Opposite Kashiwaya

You really must go to Kashiwaya Shima Onsen next time you visit Japan. It is well worth the short trip from Tokyo. I can't recommend this Shima Onsen enough!

G